When people think of Sardinia, they usually picture the famous beaches of the Costa Smeralda or the turquoise bays of Cala Gonone. But just a few kilometers off the east coast lies a landscape that ranks among the island's most impressive natural scenery: Lake Cedrino.
The idyllic reservoir lies in the heart of the Nuoro province, near Dorgali and Orosei. Surrounded by steep limestone mountains, fragrant maquis shrubland, and deep gorges, it feels like a hidden world where time seems to slow down. Kayakers glide silently across the water, hikers discover secluded trails, and above it all rises the rugged mountain landscape of the Supramonte.
The Cedrino River – lifeline of eastern Sardinia
Lake Cedrino owes its existence to the Cedrino River, one of Sardinia's most voluminous rivers. Its source lies on the slopes of the Gennargentu massif, near the Supramonte of Orgosolo. There it originates as the Rio Boloriga and winds its way for approximately 80 kilometers through deep valleys and karst landscapes to its mouth at Orosei, where it flows into the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The famous geographer Claudius Ptolemy already mentioned the river in the 2nd century AD. Historians suspect that the name Cedrino derives from the once numerous cedar or citrus trees that grew along its banks. Indeed, the region is still known today for its citrus fruits, including the rare Pompìa fruit, a local specialty of Sardinia.
The Cedrino River appears repeatedly in the works of Sardinian Nobel laureate Grazia Deledda. Particularly in her novel "Canne al vento," the river's landscape becomes a symbol of fate and the connection people have with their homeland.
The formation of Lago Cedrino
Until the mid-20th century, the Cedrino River regularly flooded the Orosei plain. To control the water and simultaneously provide water for agriculture, construction of the Pedra 'e Othoni dam near Dorgali began in 1964.
The damming created today's Lago Cedrino – a long, narrow lake that winds through the mountains like a fjord. The calm waters reflect the surrounding rock faces, forming a fascinating contrast to the rugged nature of the Supramonte.
The crossing of the lake via the spectacular Ponte di Iriai, one of Sardinia's most famous bridges, is particularly impressive. From here, a magnificent view opens up over the entire lake landscape.
A paradise for kayakers and nature lovers
Lake Cedrino is considered one of the most beautiful places in Sardinia for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Unlike the often windy coast, the water here usually remains calm and is ideal for relaxed excursions.
Those who explore by kayak will discover hidden coves, narrow side channels, and impressive limestone cliffs that rise directly from the water. Especially in the mornings, a light veil of mist often hangs over the lake, lending the landscape an almost mystical atmosphere.
Guided boat tours are also very popular. During the trip, spectacular views open up of the Supramonte mountains and the mighty Monte Corrasi, one of the most striking peaks in central Sardinia.
Hiking along the Rio Cedrino
Numerous hiking trails lead around the lake through unspoiled nature. The routes wind through holm oak forests, past ancient shepherds' paths, and offer breathtaking viewpoints at every turn.
The paths along the Rio Cedrino are particularly charming, where, with a bit of luck, you can spot wild goats, birds of prey, and even Sardinian mouflon. In spring, wildflowers transform the landscape into a colorful natural paradise, while the surrounding mountains are still nourished by the winter rains.
The best time to travel
Spring is considered the ideal time to visit. The lake's water level is high, the vegetation is lush, and the temperatures are pleasant.
In summer, long sunny days and perfect conditions for water sports are a major draw. However, towards the end of the season, the water level can drop significantly, causing some shoreline areas to dry out.
Autumn, in turn, offers spectacular lighting conditions and a special tranquility, as there are significantly fewer visitors.
The legend of the spirit of Cedrino
For generations, the inhabitants of the region have told an old story about the river and the mountains of the Supramonte.
Long ago, a young shepherdess named Nuria is said to have lived in the Cedrino Valley. Her beauty was renowned far beyond the mountains. One day, a mysterious hunter fell in love with her; he always emerged from the gorges at sunset and disappeared again at dawn.
Nobody knew where he came from. The village elders claimed he was a spirit of Mount Corrasi, guarding the springs and forests.
Nuria and the hunter met secretly on the banks of the Cedrino. However, when a severe drought struck the region, the villagers demanded that the stranger bring rain. The hunter remained silent and disappeared.
Desperately, Nuria searched for him in the mountains. Finally, she reached a cave high above the valley. There, the spirit appeared to her one last time and revealed his secret: He was the guardian of Sardinia's waters. If he remained among humans, the springs would dry up.
They said their tearful goodbyes. As the ghost vanished, a torrential rain suddenly began. The dried-up riverbeds filled up again, and the Cedrino carried more water than ever before.
Even today, the old folks tell of a figure that can be seen on the shore of Lago Cedrino on still nights. Those who look closely can see a young woman searching the mountains for her lost lover. The wind that then sweeps across the water is said to carry the voices of the two lovers.
Conclusion
Lake Cedrino is one of Sardinia's most hidden natural treasures. Here, history, rugged mountain landscapes, and pristine nature converge. Whether kayaking, hiking, or simply enjoying the tranquility, the lake offers a completely different side of the island than the well-known coastal resorts.
Those who want to discover Sardinia beyond its beaches will find a place full of beauty, stories and secrets at Lago Cedrino.
